Danger Dog Blog

Why I Love Nepal: Hardware in Mustang

Nepal is justifiably famous for the fabulous woodcarvers of yore, but today I will focus on their locks, hasps and latches on the doors and gates along the Kali Gandaki River in lower Mustang.

The Chhairo Gompa is part of the Tibetan Refugee Camp just outside of Marpha village in lower Mustang.  It is slowly being restored to its former glory.

I'm not sure how old the hardware is on this door, but it is in the style of the Kingdom of Lo Manthang.

This gompa was built sometime in the 1600s.   Once the religious center of the Thakali people, the salt traders of the area relocated after the Chinese closed the border to Tibet and the Chhairo Gompa fell into disrepair.  The last of the monks left Chairro in the 1970s.

John Sanday was the architect chosen by Lama Sashi Dojto help with Chhairo Gompa's restoration.

We have been watching the progress every year and things are progressing albeit slowly.

A lovely old hasp at the Gompa.

Just down the road a bit, in Tukche, where I have been photographing this lovely old abandoned house for many, many years, there are quite a few old hasps and latches.

From the same house in Tukche.

A more primitive latching system.

Even more primitive hinges, again made with what's on hand.  

I would have like to have seen this old house in its heyday, when Tukche merchants cornered the  lucrative salt trade from Tibet. 

Starting in the early 1960s, these magnificent old houses were abandoned when the road from India to Pokhara was built -- making the traditional salt from Tibet more expensive than the Indian salt.   By the early 1970s many houses were abandoned.   My husband met a lady who grew up in Tukche at an African/Nepal film festival in Kathmandu.   In her mid-60s, her aunt lived in this house and she often visited.  She is now a doctor and her children have emigrated to New Zealand.

There are clues that this house is not completely abandoned however... Laundry on the lines and prayer flags adorn the inner courtyard. 

Just to compare, this is the courtyard of the lovely Tukche Distillery.   The house was 207 years old when this photo was taken.   Their brandies are delicious!   But that story is for another post.

This hasp is from the town of Philing, just across the bridge from EklaiBhatti in Mustang.

A hasp of an entirely different sort.   Also from Philing.   Yak hide hardware.

Using what is at hand is an art in Mustang.

Looking through photos really makes me miss Nepal.

Stay tuned.  

 

 

 

The Dogs of Mustang

This little Lhasa Apso is named Tashi and lives in the town of Eklaibhatti in Mustang.   With his hair pulled back to counter the raging Kali Gandaki winds, he can see across the plains.

This dog can often be seen playing in the Kali Gandaki River.  

This little shaggy dog rests outside his home.

Tiger relaxes under his master's shaligram display in Old Jomsom.   Tiger is an almost all black dog with a little white on his belly, hence his moniker Tiger.   I had met Tiger on an earlier trip and he immediately came up and wanted his ears scratched!

This handsome red dog from Jomsom reminds me of Jackie, a friend's dog.   I believe that this dog is a Nepali Shikari Khukur.   They are known for their pointed wolf-like noses, thin elegant waists and powerful thighs.    He was guardedly friendly.   Like most dogs, this one does not like cameras, fearing that dreaded flash.

Also in Jomsom, this young dog rests in the shade.

 

You can have a portrait of your pet painted in Nepal by 3 signboard artists.  Megh Raj Thapa puts the finishing touches on Charley, an Elkhound.   Three artists get work and you get a choice of three paintings of your pet.  

Choosing from three portraits will be hard for many of these Danger Dog (and Cat!) afficionados, but the whole project is designed to give more work to these struggling artists.   Like everywhere in the world, modernity reigns, and in Nepal this means that the old charming hand-painted signs are being replaced by computer-generated images. 

I hope you would agree that this would be a shame.

Time is running out to order your very own pet memorialized on metal.   I am only accepting orders until June 3, 2011, as the bandhas (general strikes) are making it more difficult to travel through town.

Contact me at ampage1@gmail.com to order.   Your satisfaction is guaranteed as I accept no money up front.   You will receive a choice of 3 portraits by Nepali signboard artists.   You can see more examples and learn how to order at www.NepalDog.com.

 

But hurry!

I will be returning to Nepal in October, 2011, to continue the project.  You are welcome to become a part of the Danger Dog Project.   Micro-finanace through art patronage!

Live from Pokhara: Why I love Nepal.

The lakeside resort town of Pokhara is getting ready for their New Year, beginning on April 14 this year. Wednesday the 13th is their New Year's Eve.

This is shot from our rooftop.   The Annapurna Range was out in all its glory last night to welcome us back to town.

The town is all abuzz with everyone in their new clothes in preparation for the new year.   Here Dan tantalizes this cute dog who wants Dan's food.   Nepali dogs like Westerners very much.   We smell different and are generous with handouts!

 
Lake Fewa is the heart of Pokhara.   Many people are crossing over to the temple a short while across the lake.  

In honor of the New Year holiday, there is a fair, including rides, booths and food courts open at the lakeside.

Sunset from our rooftop at the Green Tara.   Hotels are about $10 per night here and great value.   Clean, bathroom included, beautiful staircases, good food, newspapers in the lobby, free Wi-Fi.   The Green Tara in particular is quiet, off the street, and has lovely views of the mountains, rooftops and birds of Pokhara.  You can even see the lake from here.

Pokhara is lovely from every angle.   Colorful boats line the lakeside in Pokhara.

The water buffalos seem to like the Franzia Wine boxes!

This is one odd mannequin!   It did catch my eye, however.   My artist, Shree, who is soon off to Korea, studied with a school in Kathmandu.

Please check out the Nepal Dog YouTube Channel:   http://www.youtube.com/user/NepalDog

You will be happy you did!

Now is the time to order:   Be ahead of the Pack!

I am back in Nepal for the 9th Danger Dog trip and am accepting commissions now.   I'll be back to the states in early June, just in time for Father's Day presents.  

HOW TO ORDER

To order, please send me a photo of your pet.   I will give it to three different artists, giving you a choice of paintings and three people will get work.   Each painting is about one square foot and is on metal with synthetic enamel paint.   These can be hung indoors or out, be framed or unframed.

Satisfaction is guaranteed as I accept no money up front.   If you do not like one of the three, you pay nothing, and the 3 artists are paid in full in any case.   Let me know what you want it to say and that's it!

Send your photo to ampage1@gmail.com or find out more at www.NepalDog.com.

Let's keep these artists painting.

American Dogs = Nepali Jobs.

Hello from Dogmandu!

 

Why I Love Nepal: Pokhara

We woke to the sight of the Annapurna Mountain Range right out our window.   Pokhara has been lovely this time of year, raining gently in the afternoon and clear in the mornings and evenings.

Again taken from right outside our door, we have Dauligiri on the left, Machupuchhre (aka Fishtail Mountain) in the center, and more of the Annapurna's on the right.  What a wake up call!

Here is a sneaky self portrait.   If I was to get a massage here, I would likely choose this shop just for their Art Brut signboard.

Pema and his Spitz await customers at Pema's Tibetan Kitchen.   Spitz's are very common here in Pokhara.   There are three just in the field outside our window.

There is currently an Eastern European group that is practicing yoga on the rooftop of the Green Tara.   They are very fit and the instructions are in English.  I wish I liked yoga, or I would join them.  

I was able to drop off some photos with Jit Gurung of Munal Arts.

Jit and his wife enjoy a romantic moment in the foothills of Nepal.   This is an almost life-sized photo printed on vinyl flex.   By the way, I noticed that Jit is left-handed.

Jit designed this quite arresting anti-smoking sign.   Often when I come in, Jit will be sketching.

The first finals are in.   Lola the Coton de Tulear, Scamper the Norwich Terrier and Dwight the Dog, all by Sufraj Khadka.  (left to right).

 

Please check out the Nepal Dog YouTube Channel:   http://www.youtube.com/user/NepalDog

You will be happy you did!

Stay tuned.   More tomorrow.

I am back in Nepal for the 9th Danger Dog trip and am accepting commissions now.   I'll be back to the states in early June, just in time for Father's Day presents.  

HOW TO ORDER

To order, please send me a photo of your pet.   I will give it to three different artists, giving you a choice of paintings and three people will get work.   Each painting is about one square foot and is on metal with synthetic enamel paint.   These can be hung indoors or out, be framed or unframed.

Satisfaction is guaranteed as I accept no money up front.   If you do not like one of the three, you pay nothing, and the 3 artists are paid in full in any case.   Let me know what you want it to say and that's it!

Send your photo to ampage1@gmail.com or find out more at www.NepalDog.com.

Let's keep these artists painting.

American Dogs = Nepali Jobs.

Hello from Dogmandu!

 

 

 

 

Why I Love Nepal -- Himalayan Wildflowers in Mustang

One of the very best things about Nepal is its variety of flora to enjoy.   Everything from Abelia to Zingiberaceae are represented in this vast and beautiful country.

June is the monsoon time in much of Nepal, but the Mustang district is behind the rain shadow formed by the mighty Annapurna range, leaving one free to explore the rich flora of the region which often appears desolate until one looks closely.

This fragrant field of lilac salvias thrives under blue skies and the whitecaps of nearby Dhaligiri (27,000' or 8200m).  This shot is taken near the Mustang village of Dhakerjong (12,000') in June, 2010.   The terraced fields are planted in barley.

Silene moorcroftiana has made its home in the crevases by the side of the road.  This photo was taken along the high road to Lupra from Keg Beni. 

This arisaema flavum suddenly appeared once we had climbed to 13,000'.   A tiny flower no more than 6 inches in height.

Stellera chamaejasme is common off the beaten tracks along the Tibetan borderlands.   A fragrant perennial, it is always a welcome sight.  

These pretty pink androsace globifera are common off road near Keg Beni.   Some members of this family have leaves very like primulas.

Deep blue delphiniums mix with white Heracleum Lallii and purple campanula latifolia in cultivated meadows near Chhokor village.  

Onopordum acanthium (aka Scotch Thistle) is tasty to this orange and black beetle.    This photo was taken in the meadows not far from the holy temple of Muktinath.

An unidentified furry yellow plant above the caves near Jharkot is also covered with the same orange and black beetles.

Impatiens sulcata found around the edges of the cultivated meadows of Jharkot in Mustang.

These photos were all taken in late June and early July.   Altitude ranged from 12,000 to 15,000 feet (3600 to 4500m).