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November 2008

October 2008

Amar's work in progress

100_3533 Checked in on Amar Shrestha today and found him busily at work on Sugar, Collette, and a sheep dog. 

We heard about an exhibit that was closing soon at the Indigo Gallery of woodcarvings by an American woman and a Nepali artist, using both traditional and modern themes.   Pretty good,  the guy running the gallery says business is slow there as everywhere.   

At the Indigo, there were brochures for ex-patriot voter information, printed by the Obama campaign.   We are definitely trying to figure out where the election day party is.  In 2004, we voted in Kathmandu, but may have left it til too late.   "No guarantees," the guy at the embassy said about the mail pouch.  Not reassuring.  However, there was  a lovely party thrown by the US Ambassador at the Sheraton  on Sukumvit in Bangkok. Great party.   Lots of computer stations to look up your precinct results, big screen TVs, thousands of people there, good hors d'oeuvres.   The strawpoll had Kerry leading 1600 to 500 or so (all #s approximate).   Fascinating company and all a 10-block walk from our hotel!  That's not the kind of party we'll find in Kathmandu, but we shall see.

This time we voted early but, alas, not (as in the above straw poll) often.   There's too much at stake here!

Next door to the Indigo, there's a new restaurant opening in the place where I had the Danger Dog exhibit last November.   A mix of Chinese, Indian, Lebanese and Thai food.  We're looking forward to the new incarnation!   Lebanese food! 

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We stopped and saw Surya, and were amazed to find that he had done an age progression of the Irish Wolfhound on the right.  Finn (L) is as he was, but Max (R) was a puppy on the original and Surya was able to make him the same size as Finn!   Don't you just love technology?  I was a little concerned that they would get the rather complicated instructions, but these guys continue to surprise me every day!

100_3542 Barbeque!  This place smelled amazing from outside!  There are only ten things on the menu - all in Nepali, but everything looked delicious.   And the God's rays coming through the skylight...What a great place to stop and have a snack.


Friday in Kathmandu

Ordered a couple of paintings from Ram Mohan Patel today.   Got a whole different response this time.   Ram Mohan was quite distant, even diffident, the first time we met.   I think not trusting foreigners and expecting me to be nothing but trouble.   Didn't want to bother -- offered me the same plastic banner this time, now that I think of it.   But this time, his beautiful daughter, sweeping the doorway in her pink sari, ushered us in, pulled up a chair for us.   I told Ram how much I enjoyed his earlier works -- 'Topiko kala ekdum ramro ho', in my pidgeon Nepali.   

Ram Mohan insisted on a certain size painting -- only 12 x 15 will do.  Didn't get the reaction i'd expected from "Sweet Pea"  -- an apt moniker if there ever was one.   Also ordered the Lion King, a 14-year-old ginger puss nicknamed Pookie.

Ram was wonderfully demanding arguing for the bigger size.   And I do wonder what he thought of "Beware of Cat"!

Also we checked in on Amar Shrestha, and saw four fine starts -- all done on a pink background.   Sugar, Mooke, Collette and a sheep dog are all painted and ready. 


Dragon Guest House

Another beautiful day in Kathmandu!   The sky is blue, the city is getting ready for Friday night (Saturday is the only day off for workers in Nepal -- Sunday is a work day), but a special Friday.   It's the eve of Tihar, AKA Diwalli, or the Festival of lights.   This festival is a lot of fun as each day they honor a different theme.   The first day is the Day of the Crow!   But, the best will be the second day -- the Day of the Dog!!!    Stay tuned!

I've decided to post photos on the side as a photo album.   You can click on the photo referenced in my post and see them in the margins to the left.

The first album is the Dragon Guest House, our home in Kathmandu Valley.   Once we found this small piece of paradise, we have always come back, for over 9 years!  Located across the valley from Kathmandu proper, the Dragon is a short walk to the Stupa.  Spotlessly clean, you will know when it is dawn, as daily they start to wash the terrazo floors.  Beautiful views, though now they are being lost to a building boom.  Staff is very friendly, and not afraid to sit around and laugh for a portion of every hour.  Cannot end without mentioning the garden, which is as large as the hotel, and wonderful to occupy one of four tables for breakfast through Beer in the candlelight.  That's because there are many scheduled power outages!

But I couldn't resist showing you this close up of Sufraj's little daughter.   Absolutely beautiful!100_3532 Click to enlarge her!

Namaste!


Kathmandu!

We've arrived safe and sound here in Boudha, the Tibetan Buddhist area of Kathmandu Valley.   It is heaven being back.  Little has changed, or just enough to make it interesting.  Electricity still on and off.  "Loadshedding" in the local vernacular.

Rumors abounded yesterday about a Chakra Bandh that would curtail all traffic in the Capitol today.  No cars, busses, taxis, bicycles -- no wheels.   The only exemption is the Rickshaw.  If one needed to go the airport, you'd need to load the luggage on a rickshaw and that's that.   Maybe they have a strong union.   Who knows?   Chakra, as any Yoga afficionado knows, is a wheel, and a Bandh is a ban.

During these bandhs, there's no noise, little dust, no traffic.   Clean air.  A wonderful time to walk.

Luckily, I'm finished with airports for a while.   And the box of wine didn't burst in the luggage!

I ordered 22 paintings yesterday and 56 this morning before 9 am!   Because of the Chakra Bandh rumor, I tried to order with my favorite studio, but the boss had his cell off all day.   Ke garne?  (What to do? in Nepali.)  But the rumor was just that and I got the work done today early.

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Here are the guys at Ram Krishna's Studio, talking to the boss.   Ram has since taken over the Studio where he was an employee only last spring.   Good for him!   Ram Krishna often paints his Danger Dogs inside the circle of the moon.   Next is Sufraj and his lovely family.   Sufraj is off on holiday to the mountains for Tihar and will get his first batch done early.   Note:   I will get the hang of inserting these pictures soon.  Please be patient.   Tomorrow will be better.

Our flight, while long, was quite nice.   We had an extra seat between us for the first (15-hour) leg, a quite luxurious 10-hour layover in Hong Kong, and a really fun trip from HKK to Kathmandu.   Dragon Air had perfect service -- the beautiful, young flight attendants had lovely uniforms.   I want one of those aprons!   These ladies were cheerful and smart and hard-working.  They love their job and it shows.

I ended up exchanging photos with a mysterious lady swaddled completely in a scarf and dark glasses.  We would exchange photos and cameras like a show and tell.   I thought she was a Nepali film star travelling incognito, as she was quite beautiful when unwrapped -- a dazzling smile.

Then the smiling, friendly monks across the way hand me their camera.   Is this the best plane ride ever?  Did I mention Dan'l and I have 3 seats apiece?   

We exited the rear of the plane (like DB Cooper) onto the tarmac.   The weather was fresh and cool and wonderful after the airplane cabin and airport air -- 30 hours without fresh air!  The mummy lady slipped me her address on the tarmac.  Turns out she is a secretary with the Nepal Educational Support Trust (NEST).